Beginner’s Glossary: Simple Definitions of Vintage Jewelry Terms
Buying vintage jewelry can feel like learning a new language.
Words like filigree, milgrain, old-cut, or calibré show up in product descriptions — but what do they actually mean?
Whether you're brand new to antique jewelry or just want a quick refresher, here’s a beginner-friendly glossary of common terms used when describing Art Deco and vintage pieces — no fancy background required.
💍 Jewelry Materials
Platinum
A naturally white, strong, and long-lasting precious metal often used in Art Deco rings. Doesn’t tarnish. Was considered ultra-modern in the 1920s.
White Gold
An alloy (mix) of gold and white metals like palladium or nickel, often used as a more affordable alternative to platinum. Has a similar bright finish.
Yellow Gold
Traditional warm-toned gold, often seen in earlier antique pieces but also used in some Art Deco styles.
💎 Diamond + Gemstone Cuts
Old European Cut (OEC)
A round diamond cut used before modern techniques. It has a smaller table (top facet) and chunkier sparkle — softer and more romantic than modern brilliant cuts.
Single Cut
A small, older diamond cut with fewer facets. Often used as accents around larger stones.
Calibré-Cut
Tiny colored gemstones (like sapphires or rubies) custom-cut into precise shapes to fit tightly in a design. Common in Art Deco jewelry for border-style accents.
🧵 Design Details
Filigree
Delicate, lace-like metalwork made by hand. Often seen in Art Deco rings as decorative openwork around stones.
Milgrain
Tiny raised beads along the edges of a setting or design. Adds texture and vintage charm.
Bezel Setting
A smooth metal rim that wraps around a stone to hold it in place. Clean and secure — often seen in Deco jewelry.
Prong Setting
Small “claws” that hold a stone in place. The most common setting, also called a “claw setting.”
🔍 Construction + Features
Hallmark
A stamped mark inside a ring or on a piece of jewelry that indicates metal type, maker, or origin (example: “PLAT” for platinum or “18K” for 18-karat gold).
Resize (Resized)
When a ring has been professionally adjusted to a new size. This is common and doesn’t usually affect value unless it’s done poorly.
Reproduction
A newly made piece designed to look vintage. May use vintage-inspired details but is not from the actual era.
Converted Piece
Jewelry made by transforming one type of vintage piece into another — for example, turning an old brooch into a pendant.
🧡 Final Thoughts: You Don’t Need to Know Everything — Just the Basics
You don’t have to be an expert to shop for vintage jewelry — but a little knowledge goes a long way. Understanding these terms helps you make smarter decisions, ask better questions, and appreciate the craftsmanship behind every piece.
And if something’s unclear? Ask. A good seller will always be happy to explain.
💬 Still have a question about something you’ve seen in a listing? I’d love to help — no pressure, just friendly advice.